Fluorocarbon Leaders

This leader material gives the angler the ultimate advantage.  When you place it in water it simply disappear from sight.  On a sunny day you think you can see the line, but you’re not, it’s the lines shadow.  

Fluorocarbon is not as strong as regular tippet materials. Manufactures claim theirs has superb wet knot strength and are extremely abrasion resistant. I do not agree them. You should never use Fluorocarbon use unless the conditions warrant it.  All I can tell you is that whatever strength you think you should use, go to the next higher.

There are also fluorocarbon fishing lines being manufactured.  I have used them and some seem to have better strength than others. 

The cost of Fluorocarbon leaders is roughly 3 yards for $1.00 and Fluorocarbon line is under $15.00 for over 200 yards.

Leaders and Tippets

Tippets and leaders made for fly fishing are your best choice over fishing mono.  They are smaller in diameter, stronger, have good abrasion-resistance and great knot strength .

Knots

To better your odds with knots, the following knots I have had good success with and recommend you try.  Use the Double Surgeons knot to join leaders. Use the Dunkin Loop knot, also know as the Uni knot  (except going through the Dunkin's loop at least 6-7 times) for attaching flies and can also be used to join two lines together. And always moisten all knots before tightening them.

Initial Run

There are a number of reasons why fish are broken off or lost.  When you set the hook on the fish, you must let the fish make its initial run.  If you don't, you will more than likely loose it.  Get the fish on the reel as quickly as possible and don't be afraid to strip line if the fish runs at you.  Keep up with the fish, even if it means you have to chase it down stream.

Reel Drags

Fighting a fish requires that the reel's drag is functioning properly.  Keep the reel clean and lubricated.  The drag needs to be set correctly, not to loose and not to tight.  The best way to learn how to set the drag properly is to test the drag by pulling the line through the rod, not by pulling the line a foot above the reel.  Taking the line in one hand and the grip in the other.  Pull the line and adjust the drag until it is slightly difficult to pull through the guides.  Once you’ve hooked a few fish and further tuned your drag, now you have learned its feel, now you can set it above the reel. 

Rod Tip Up and Keep Your Hands Off

The rod tip needs to be high at all  times except when you have to point the rod at a screamer.  Never grab the spool or palm the reel.  Keep your fingers off the reel handle unless you need to pick up excess line.  Let the drag do the work and you keep the line tight to the fish at all times.  

Using Your Index Finger

Instead of palming the reel, use your index finger to press the fly line against the cork when you need added pressure.  This is very helpful when you are trying to land your fish or turn him.  Be careful not to over-pressure, especially if you are using small hook sizes.  Remember to keep your fingers off of the reel handle when your not reeling.  Let the drag do its job. 

Knowing when the fish wants to run and letting him run will reduce brake offs and/or pulling the hook from the its  mouth.  Many times over pressuring a fish will cause the tippet to brake at a knot or pull the small hook from the fish's mouth. 

Under pressuring the fish can also cause problems with having to much slack in the line.  The rod needs to be loaded at all times with good pressure on the fish.  When the fish surges with thrust greater than your knot strength he wins, you loose.  With practice you’ll learn and know the feel through the rod when the fish is going to make a run. Putting the correct pressure on the fish will result in more fish landed.

Cover, Comfort and Forage

What is cover? Cover is anything a fish considers a place to hide as long as he has a good oxygen supply .  Cover can be white water riffles, under cut banks, logs, dark spots on light color slate, boulders, drops offs, ledges, shadows and the list goes on.  Cover, Comfort, and Forage is the live of a steelhead and order of importance.  If you remember CCF, your catch success will be much better.  Knowing where to cast and making the most of each cast is the differences in catching or not catching.

Fish need to feel safe and to feel safe they need cover.  There are times when fish will sacrifice cover for comfort.  If the water is freezing cold, the fish might move to a comfort zone at the back of the pool or tail out to conserve energy.  

Fish at times need comfort and here are a few examples.  If the water is to warm, they will move into an area of the pool where there is more oxygen.  If the water is freezing, they may move to the middle or back of pool.  

I remember reading an InFisherman article over and over.  The article was about finding big fish in various water conditions. I was fishing with a friend one day on  Elk Creek, it had two feet of snow on its banks.  The water temperature was just above freezing.   My friend landed a 9 lb male hooked in the tail out of the hole.  I remembered the article and I went to white water at the head of the hole.  Within a few casts I hooked and landed a 15 pound male. 

River Gauges 

Water meters are an important resource to steelheaders. Discharge, cubic feet per second tells you what the flow is. Some meters also have a temperature gauge which doesn't matter anyway to real steelheader.

Most OH rivers are prime when the Discharge, cubic feet per second is 500 and falling.
see River Flow's

CPR Certification and Insurance

Did you know many OH Steelhead river guides do not have CPR training/certification or  insurance, its not required by law. The Steelhead Guide does. You should always ask this question when hiring a guide.

The law goes something like this. If the land owner owns both sides of the river, he/she owns the land under the water too. If you are stepping on the river’s bed, you are trespassing.

indicator Set-Up for a 9.6 x 8wt

Stop loosing fish and your flies. I'm sure this one goes against everything you've been told. I use this setup in all water conditions including low and gin clear. I might get 1-2 less hookups a day but I'm fishing more. 

I land more fish and loose a 10th of my flies compared to when I use 6-8 lb Fluorocarbon. You can get most snags out, turn most rocks over, pull flies out of tree  branches, pull branches down to reach the flies and escape brake-offs when the fish runs and hits rocks and objects under the water's surface.

a. From the fly line attach 6-7 feet of 15-20 lb mono tippet or line.
b. Attach a float or indicator.
c. Attach mini Black Bird swivel.
d. Attach above the swivel split shot(s), enough to get the flies quickly to the bottom .
e. Attach 2-2.5 feet of 10-12 lb Fluorocarbon.
f. Attach your 1st fly usually a yarn pattern.
g. Attach 1-2 feet 8-10 lb Fluorocarbon tied to the shank of your 1st fly.
h. Tie on your 2nd fly.